Last Saturday, five friends converged on a Brooklyn sidewalk to see what all the hype was about.  Like most NY hot spots, Mile End is annoyingly small and crowded.  And at 1:20 pm, we were sentenced to a 1-hour wait.  However, through our advance research, we had anticipated this possibility, and we were armed with a plan B for our wait: Eton, an American-influenced dumpling haven in nearby Carroll Gardens (359 Sackett St).  Small, but sufficient, this cozy shop had just enough room for my friends and I to crowd around a small counter with our Sampler Plate.  For $7, we shared 3 dumplings each of: pork & beef with cabbage, chicken with shitake mushrooms, and vegetable with lentils and tofu.  We also threw in a slider of BBQ pulled pork in a steamed Asian bun for good measure (thanks, Riki).  As we waited for our dumplings, I watched in a bit of awe as a big, white guy in a Steelers hat no-less carefully folded and pinched dumplings with the elegance of a much smaller, Asian dumpling master.  Well played, Pittsburgh, well played.   

Served with your choice of sauces (we went with 2: soy and ginger), the dumplings were juicy and delicious.  They had that essential slight crispiness on the outside, but still remained tender on the inside.  The pork and beef, especially, were as good as I’ve ever had.  I want more just thinking about them.  I’m generally a pork dumpling purist, but even the chicken and mushroom dumplings were, admittedly, quite tasty.  I didn’t try the vegetable variety, but my friends had no complaints.  The BBQ pulled pork sandwich wasn’t bad, but I am partial to the more Asian-style pork buns. This was American BBQ in an Asian bun.  Good, but I didn’t finish it (which is really the true test in my eyes).  We still had “real” brunch to attend to anyway.

We strolled back up to Mile End, just as they were calling our name.  At exactly 2:30, we were comfortably seated in one of the four or so booth seats, excited and amazed that we had actually pulled this mastery in timing off.  As the Kinks played over the speakers, we perused the weekend brunch menu.

I was so torn. I love traditional Jewish food – I so badly wanted to order chopped liver and matzoh ball soup, or the smoked meat sandwich.  But, with my Montreal bagel mission, there was only one choice for me – “The Beauty” – lox, cream cheese, tomato, red onion and capers on a Montreal-style bagel (closed for $9; open for $12).  When asked if I could choose my own bagel flavor, the waitress replied, “No, we only have sesame.”  (NY 1, Montreal 0). 

Riki ordered the “Smoked Meat” – cured & smoked beef brisket with mustard on rye and a plate of pickles for the table.

Liana ordered the special of the day, which included a delicious brisket hash and two sunny-side up eggs.

Kelly and Laura both got the “Bagel & Schmear.”

Side note: as we waited for our food, I took a quick trip to the bathroom and was extremely disturbed by the bar o’ soap-on-a-stick jutting out of the wall.  Not only did I feel like I was unsuccessfully washing my hands with a filthy piece of bar soap, I was a little uncomfortable about the sexually suggestive manner with which I was forced to do it.  Aw-kward.

Finally, the moment of truth. 

The bagel looked soft, and the lox were a fresh and bright pink, but I immediately had a problem with the size of the tomato slice in proportion to the rest of the sandwich.  I’d like some lox with my tomato sandwich, thank you.  The bagel was definitely chewier and denser than a New York bagel, and somehow, smaller, so it didn’t make me feel so full (in a good way).  The bagel was good, don’t get me wrong.  But it wasn’t amazing; it wasn’t life-altering; and it definitely wasn’t worth a 1-hour wait in the cold.  The other food was pretty good though.  The smoked meat, which they call brisket, but as far as I’m concerned was pastrami, was tasty.  I liked the thickness of the cut of the meat, but again, I just didn’t love it.  It was good, but Katz’s pastrami is still King.  The hash on the special was pretty freaking good though.  I also took an apple turnover to go, which survived an afternoon at the Brooklyn Museum in my purse and was still yummy.

All in all, it’s no surprise that I prefer the New York variety of everything.  I think I’ll stick with my neighborhood favorites: Russ & Daughters and Katz’s (both conveniently, and not coincidentally, located in walking distance to my apartment).  My apologies Canada, but I still heart NY.

Miniature Tenderloin Sandwiches ($18 for 3) with Wild Mushrooms and Boursin Cheese

Damn, were these little tenderloin steak sandwiches tasty.  Sometimes steak sandwiches, especially mini-versions, can suffer from meat that has been overcut or overcooked.  But not these guys.  I loved the combination of the mushrooms and boursin cheese. I would call these the ultimate steak sliders.

Pan-Fried Calamari ($14) with Hot Cherry Peppers

Ok, so I usually like fried calamari just fine, especially with a nice, spicy marinara, but it’s rare that I really like fried calamari. For the most part, fried calamari is fried calamari is fried calamari. I really liked this fried calamari owing largely to the spicy kick from the hot cherry peppers.  They gave what would otherwise be rather mundane fried calamari an addictive spicy character, and I couldn’t stop eating them.

Miniature Lobster & Crab Burgers ($15 for 3)

These little lobster and crab sliders had beautiful chunks of fresh lobster and crab meat.  It’s not a bad deal, either, considering they come 3 to an order and a lobster roll at Luke’s is $14.

Parmesan Truffle Fries ($9)

Do I really need to tell you what I liked about truffle fries? These were especially crispy and hard not to finish.

Chilled Seared Sushi Grade Tuna ($19) with Wasabi Oil, White Soy, and Ginger Vinegar

As you can tell from the picture above, this sushi grade tuna was perfectly fresh and perfectly seared.  I like the different dipping sauces, as well as the glass of sake they brought out with it.

The Grille’s Signature Cheeseburger ($18 served w/ truffle fries)

They’re quite proud of their cheeseburger at The Capital Grille, so I hope I’m not hurting anyone’s feelings here.  Their special blend has bacon and onion mixed in it.  But this may be where it falters.  Don’t get me wrong, it’s a darn good burger. But, it’s not up there with the burgers I’ve had at other steakhouses, like the ones at Michael Jordan’s in Grand Central and Benjamin Steakhouse.  It was also a bit more done than the medium rare that we ordered.  When you start introducing bacon and onions to the blend, I think you may begin to detract from the natural flavors of the beef blend as the burger is cooked.  In fairness, I may have to give this burger another try, since it was the last of the 9 items that we tasted, and we were quite full by then.

Lollipop Lamb Chops ($18 for 4) with Herb Oil and Aged Balsamic

These little lamb chops have nice seasoning and are quite juicy.  I enjoyed them with a nice glass of a 2005 Zinfandel.

Chilled Shrimp ($9 for 3) Tossed in Ginger and Mustard Vinaigrette

I have nothing at all bad to say about these chilled shrimp.  I found them bright and zesty and really liked the dill flavor.  Was hoping they would be a bit larger, you know, like those massive shrimp cocktail you see at other steakhouses.

Miniature Fresh Mozzarella, Crisp Prosciutto and Basil Sandwiches ($10 for 3)

Classic example of good idea, poor execution. These were just way too greasy and way too salty for my palate. I think what upset me most is how much I like prosciutto in general, and how much it suffered in this greasy combination.

We started with the Vegetarian Mazmeez mezze platter of falafel, hummus, and zataar-blended cheese, which while good, we would skip in the future in favor of Balade’s more unique and adventurous offerings.

We ordered a Kafta Manakeesh, which is like a flatbread pizza with a layer of a spiced ground beef, chopped onions, parsley and lebanese spices on top.  After my first bite of this kafta pizza, I knew Balade was on to something different and delicious with its manakeesh.  There are several layers of spices and flavors that just pop on your palate.  This is a must-try.

They also have specialty pita pizzas (or pitzas) that are a bit thinner than the manakeesh.  We tried the Sultan El Shawarma pitza.  It’s basically a gourmet shwarma pizza with thinly sliced beef, onions, cucumbers, tomatoes, tahini and basil.  I strongly recommend asking for some of their house made hot sauce to add a little more pop to the pitzas.  I liked this pitza a lot but not sure it rises to the “must-try” level.  I think I would go with a different pitza next time, like the Greek Pitza or the Malak El Falafel.

Balade is one of those restaurants that is only going to be as good as your ordering. If you order properly, you’ll walk out talking about the meal for days and all the glorious flavor combinations.  For those for whom Balade will be their first Lebanese dining experience, it makes sense to split several things on the menu, as opposed to ordering your own stuff.  That way you can figure out what flavors and styles of Lebanese food you enjoy.  We happened to enjoy everything we tried, though the Kafta Manakeesh was the hit of the night.

Granted it was on the quieter side when we ate at Balade, but the servers were extremely friendly and attentive.  Not sure how the service plays out when the place is packed.  The meal was only $75 pre-tip for a bottle of wine and more food than we could finish (cold Kafta Manakeesh is better than cold Pizza Hut by the way).  Add Balade to the long list of affordable gems in the East Village.

First of all, it was not easy to snag a reservation at Chef Mehta’s tiny, 18-seat eclectic East Village restaurant (that he designed himself), but we persisted and finally got in at 9:45 pm on a Tuesday night. Chef Mehta may just be the hardest working man in NYC’s restaurant business. When you call up for a reservation, chances are you’ll be speaking with Chef Mehta, himself. Andy spoke with him twice while trying for a reservation on a couple different nights, and we were incredibly impressed with his graciousness on the phone.

Chef Mehta warmly greeted us himself once we arrived at the restaurant.  He provided us with menus and took our drink order right away. While the place is shoebox-size, the decor is warm and makes you feel right at home…that is if you live in a Manhattan apartment. We loved all the touches — newspapers as placemats, eclectic lighting fixtures, wooden tables and seats, well-placed trinkets and a buddha perched on top of a bookcase. Some parties of two were seated at communal tables, but we got a great little 2-seat bar/nook near the front. We were already excited because as we walked in two diners leaving the restaurant told us how excellent their dinner had been.  Nice!

The menu is divided into 3 groups of items at 3 different price points ($7, $12 and $15). The menu lends itself perfectly for sharing…which I promise is what you’re gonna want to do.

So, for the drinks… Andy started off with the signature Prosecco Lychee Martini made with Lychee Sorbet. While he begged me to pretend that it was me who ordered it, he described it as deliciously refreshing and loved what seemed to be the bottomless glass. I opted for wine and went for a bottle of Chateau Laulerie Sauvignon Blanc (which Andy later shared) for $25. All wines are $25 per bottle and $8 per glass. Great deal!

We then ordered our appetizers (all shared plates).  We had heard wonderful things about the Pickled Ginger Scallops with Candied Red Chili, and the dish was incredible.  The pickled scallops were sliced into thin disks, drizzled with a pickled ginger reduction and presented with a crunchy topping of crispy, dehydrated mung beans…and they were exceptional.  They were served with piping hot, crisp pita slices and a gorgeous chili sauce that I could not stop scooping up with every bite. It was truly a beautiful dish- colorful, inventive, balanced, and fun.  The components of each dish were explained as the dish was presented- each sweet, tart, salty, and crunchy element.

We next had the Foie Gras Raspberry Crostini with Walnut Salad- also fabulous, especially alongside a glass of bubbly. The foie gras was beautifully grilled and worked masterfully with the raspberry and walnut.  The raspberry offered a wonderful contrast to the foie gras and “helped to break up the fat” as Chef Mehta explained to us.

We also had the Chili Pork Dumplings with Grapefruit Confit served with Sev (micro crunchy noodles), which Andy could just not pass up (also wonderful). We loved the chili pork filling which had a nice, but not overwhelming, heat to it. I do have to say that the Scallops, though, came out on top in Round One.

Next onto the entrees…  I had the Chickpea Crusted Skate with Mint Yogurt Sauce (perfection- perfectly crispy and not at all oily served with fresh, crunchy greens on top and a delicious light and creamy mint yogurt sauce). The crispy skate with that sauce was truly one of the best fish dishes that I have had in ages.  Andy went for the Duck Portobello Gratinee with Mustard Onion Confit which was wonderful as well.

Now, neither Andy nor I have much of a sweet tooth, but we just had to try one of Chef Mehta’s desserts (especially one with ice cream after watching him take on the ice cream machine all season in The Next Iron Chef). We chose the Warm Truffle Almond Strawberries with Pepper Ice Cream.  As soon as our dish came into the dining room, I remarked that I smelled truffle (and I LOVE truffle). I was so pleasantly surprised when I realized that the earthy, extravagant scent was wafting off a dessert dish and it was coming our way!  The pepper ice cream was brilliant and it topped sweet strawberries and thin almond slices- and the truffle undertones made the dish absolute perfection. Andy described it as having a party in your mouth. It was not overwhelming, all perfectly balanced and beautifully presented.

All in all, every dish had a contrast of textures, a juxtaposition of colors, and an innovative flavor profile. Eating at Graffiti is like getting a lesson in complementary flavors and textures. Chef Mehta is a true artist and each dish is a part of the brilliant masterpiece of dinner of Graffiti. Every dish was  explained to us in detail by either Chef Mehta himself or his wonderful staff. Never have we had better service or been treated more graciously at a restaurant.

In a time when comfort food dominates the menus of most NYC hot spots, it is refreshing to enjoy food that is exciting, inventive, gorgeous, and even a bit challenging. Andy and I will certainly be back to savor more of Chef Mehta’s brilliant creations, like the new cumin eggplant buns w/ thyme fennel relish. Soon. Very soon.

We were greeted at the table by a cone of fresh baked, crusty Italian bread served with their house olive oil in a bowl with olives. The white truffle menu changes weekly and the restaurant decides that morning what the courses will be. When you sit down there’s a menu that lists your three courses and also includes 2 recommended bottles of wine. We opted for a bottle off the regular wine list – Amarone Zironda Della Valpolicella 2006. After a couple of bites of bread and our first sips of wine came some good news in the form of a bowl: this was going to be a 4-course affair!

Amuse Bouche/Course One:  Chestnut soup.  A creamy, rich fall classic with some white truffle essence and shavings.  Hearty, creamy, and well done. The server called it an amuse, but it was easily large enough to be it’s own course.

Course Two:  A homemade fettucine in a light pink vodka sauce with rich prosciutto slices, a hint of white truffle oil, and shaved white truffle slices mixed in with the pasta and sauce. The prosciutto was savory and rich, the pasta was light and perfectly cooked, the sauce was delicate so as to not overpower the truffle essence. (Our waiter offered us additional white truffle oil if you want more of a truffle bang, which I would definitely recommend)

Course Three:  Rack of lamb with a savory truffle au jus and shaved white truffles, roasted asparagus and fingerling potatoes with garlic. I had my largest slices of truffle on the lamb and had the biggest truffle taste in this course.  The lamb was perfectly medium rare and the potatoes were perfectly crispy on the outside and soft on the inside.  Everything was seasoned very well.

Course Four:  Truffle dessert!  It was what appeared to be a scoop of creamy hazelnut ice cream or gelato topped with a chocolate truffle and powdered sugar and finished off with a huge truffle-infused honey sauce. I never had white truffle, or black truffle for that matter, in a sweet course, and the honey mixed with the truffle and ice cream was a big hit.    

The Verdict

Jill: I would say that we have had some ridiculous white truffle experiences with decadent thin slices of white truffle shaved over our plates so high that you could not even see the dish underneath. This is not that type of truffle experience, but it certainly doesn’t make it a bad one. It’s a small amount of shavings, but the rich flavors of the pasta and meat compliment the amount of shavings perfectly.  It’s more of a truffle essence, and you can get more of that essence by requesting a drizzling of imported Italian truffle oil which makes a lovely addition. If you want a bang of huge truffle flavor, I would recommend going elsewhere (i.e. a truffle supplement at Babbo, Per Se, Eleven Madison parK, or even the truffle mac’n'cheese at Waverly Inn).  BUT, for the price point, you really can’t go wrong.  Quality Italian food, beautiful truffle essence with real white truffle shavings. 

Andy: For us mere mortals, truffles are a once-in-a-blue-moon splurge. I only experienced shaved truffles for the first time about two years ago. Sapori d’Ischia is ideal for people who are intrigued by what they’ve heard about shaved white truffles but have never had the opportunity to try them. It’s the perfect introduction to the essence of the white truffle and its allure without the insane price tag. Sapori d’Ischia is also ideal for the everyday truffle lover looking to get their fix in these economic times, so long as they know going in that you are getting trace amounts of truffle shavings with each course and not dishes that are generously blanketed in truffle shavings. While I would have liked our server to bring a white truffle out of a box and shave it over our dish at the table, it’s not happenin’ here. Nor is it practical at this price. If it were not for the underlying food being so delicious on its own, I may have even been a bit disappointed with the meal and the lack of that aromatic, rich, intense, in your face truffle flavor. But the homemade pasta with prosciutto and the lamb chops were so good that the mere essence of white truffle from the few shavings was synergistically pleasing. While we have read complaints about the service and the water situation, we found the service to be excellent and didn’t mind paying for the water. Oh, and I would recommend taking a bottle home of their Alba White Truffle Olive Oil for $29. Your scrambled eggs will never taste the same again.

We got down to E. 7th St. and were relieved to see that the swarm of people outside were mostly waiting for Caracas Arepa Bar. Jill waited in the manageable line at Luke’s while I walked across the street to Porchetta. The thing about these places, like many in the E. Village, is that they are teeny nooks. It’s better to do a grab-n-go than to sit and eat inside either one. Porchetta looked particularly uncomfortable on this day. Another thing is that they don’t serve beer or wine. On a Saturday afternoon, I want a beer with my lunch. So what to do? Then the light bulb went off. I remembered that within 2 blocks there are 3 great bars that allow you to bring in outside food — Standings Bar 43 East 7th Street, Burp Castle 41 East 7th Street and Blue and Gold 79 East 7th Street. So, we took our Porchetta sandwich (with sides of their cooking greens and caramelized brussels sprouts) and Luke’s lobster roll and headed to Standings. I was pretty excited to see Green Flash West Coast I.P.A. on tap. I guess both the sandwich and beer gods were smiling on us this day.

Luke’s Lobster Roll

No doubt there’s been lots of hype surrounding this lobster roll. Some can’t get past the vacuum-sealed packets of lobster. While others have complained that the lobster rolls are a bit on the small side. C’mon people. Yes, $14 isn’t cheap for a sandwich that’s served on a hot dog bun, but we’re talkin’ actual large chunks of lobster meat here, not a $5 footlong. We’re also talkin’ no mayo. In fact, butter, mayo, and seasoning are all optional. Jill ordered hers the way the guy at the counter recommend — a smear of mayo, butter and light seasoning. We could identify actual lobster claws on her roll. I took a bite and found the lobster meat to be juicy and lightly, but nicely, seasoned. You could really taste the sweetness of the lobster meat which is sorely lacking in so many lobster rolls we’ve tried. There’s no doubt you’re getting your money’s worth and probably then some. We also like that Luke’s gets their lobsters directly from the Maine lobster fishery, one of the most sustainable around and that a portion of their profits go to the Maine Lobstermen’s Association. While we had our sights set on draft beer this day, Luke’s has a nice selection of Maine Root Drinks, including a Blueberry soda. And for $2 extra you can get a lunch box w/ any of the three seafood buns (lobster, crab, or shrimp), a Maine Root soda, a bag of Miss Vickie’s chips and a pickle.

Porchetta Sandwich

You can’t help but notice the massive bundles of pork roasting in the transparent case near the register and the amazing scent of pork and herbs that fills the tiny space. I didn’t even mind the close to 15-minute wait. The first thing I noticed when tasting the $10 sandwich is the delicious herb flavor exuding from the rosemary, fennel and sage that is cooked together with the pork. The second thing I noticed was that the sandwich is topped with fatty, crispy skin crackling….and that it can be very, very crisp. I thought I had chipped my tooth. But the combination of the crispy skin, melty fat, and succulent pork makes for one tasty sandwich. Each bite packs intense flavors of juicy fat and seasonings which make the sandwich seem much larger than it appears.

Like Luke’s lobster roll, you’re not gonna be blown away by the size of Porchetta’s sandwich. But both these sandwiches are not about toppings or condiments – they’re all about the meat. And it’s amazing how much flavor they each deliver in a tiny package.

After the various prettily arranged amuse-bouches were devoured, the serious business began. First up was sea urchin cappuccino with crab, served in a pure white sea urchin shell, paired with chilled sake with green apple overtones. Now, I didn’t mention this to K at the time, but I was a little nervous here. I lived in Japan for two years and one thing I really couldn’t stand was uni – sea urchin. I mean, I couldn’t stand it to the point of not being able to swallow it. Perhaps not the best look for a date. So I was not just pleasantly surprised, but extremely relieved when the flavours turned out to taste delicately of the sea, with the meaty crab providing bite.

Once the sake was downed – kampai! – the table was cleared and two porcelain spoons were presented on plates, one with an opaque orb sitting on it, the other with a clear orb. We were told that these were molecular gastronomy versions of buffalo mozzarella and tomato and basil, respectively. This was my first experience of this style of preparation, and it was super-intense. I popped the mozzarella orb into my mouth and gently brought my tongue upwards. The orb simply exploded with the most amazing flavours, like mozzarella squared. The tomato version was even more impressive, and a prelude of what was to come.

Bread was now served, with two types of butter – salted sheep’s milk from California and unsalted cow’s milk from Vermont. K has an aversion to black olives which had been stated as we sat down, and the server had taken this into account as she was given an alternative to the olive bread that was served to me. A nice touch.

The next course was ‘Dueling Tomatoes’ – Heirloom tomatoes served three ways. The first dish was completely covered in a white foam. Hidden underneath were five cherry tomatoes in a light dressing. Second up was a meaty, thick slice of Heirloom that tasted to me as if it had been infused with some sort of tapenade. The third dish was the star of the course, however – a rich sorbet that was so intense it was on a par with the molecular orb from a few minutes back. The pairing of a rose from Provence was inspired.

It was time to add some meat into the equation. A generous portion of rabbit terrine was served with three types of cherries - K recognised the Rainier variety from her West Coast upbringing – crumbled pistachios which added some bite, and a few scattered mini pickled onions which had the surprising effect of bring the flavours together. A sweet Riesling wouldn’t have been my first idea as a pairing, but it worked well. As did the even sweeter Sauternes with the course K in particular had been waiting for – the add-in foie gras. It was excellent, rich and intense, the variety of plums arranged neatly around the plate providing some zest to the creamy mousse.
Now we were approaching the two star main courses. I undid one belt notch for each, in anticipation.

First to arrive was a full Newfoundland lobster tail poached in the most delicious sauce. I thought I could taste samphire in there. Close, but no cigar – the flavour was another edible shrub, lemon verbena. The meat was young and firm, and accompanied by three tiny servings of zucchini, mushrooms and red peppers.

By the time the perfectly pink lamb chop arrived with it’s sheep’s milk tart accompaniment we were both struggling somewhat. The jus made with the meat juices was divine, however, and so on we soldiered, enjoying the molecular picholine olive bubbles that were scattered around the plate.

We declined dessert, but did have some small tastings from the impressive cheese board, one particularly pungent French example not just standing out, but getting up and walking around. Coffee was served with a selection of little mignardises, and K was given an extra box of them as a gift to take home. We left five hours after sitting down, sated and buzzing with the knowledge that we’d experienced a truly great meal.

So to the big question – was it really worth over $400 per head? The big answer – absolutely worth every penny. It’s the best meal I’ve had since Marco Pierre White was cooking at the Mirabelle in London a decade ago, and in my top three of all time. Scrimp, save, but if you truly love Wining and Dining, you must experience Eleven Madison Park at least once.

We were stuffed at this point, so we decided to forego dessert. When we got our check, we were surprised to find two individually wrapped treats to take home. The Redhead is a real gastropub with a solid menu and a laid back vibe.  Why head to one of the new trendy gastropubs for mediocre food and steep prices when you’ve got the Redhead?

Antipasti:

The start of your meal at Il Mulino is an onslaught. There is no other way to describe it. You are attacked from all angles and all directions with food. First, a huge bread basket is filled with rustic Italian bread as well as small, toasted garlic bread.  Next, a plate of fried zucchini appeared. Both breads were delicious, but I thought the fried zucchini was way too oily.  It’s like the taste of the smell of your neighborhood Chinese food take-out joint. The flavor of the zucchini doesn’t come out at all. But that was okay because next came the big hunk of cheese (which SO made me think of big hunk of cheese day from the West Wing). Everyone gets a smaller chunk of the larger chunk of fresh parmaggiano reggiano (one of my favorite all-time cheeses). Then came a fresh tomato bruschetta and exactly one mussel.  The one mussel was not memorable.  But the tomato brushcetta was delicious – fresh, bursting with flavor of the tomato and a hint of garlic and basil. I only wish they had given us just the tomatoes to put on the bread we already had out on the table because the bread they gave us was totally soggy. Which reminds me, we got yet another bread basket full of warmed garlic bread. I advise to try to restrain yourself during this onslaught. A ridiculously large meal is still in store.

Piatti Del Giorno

Quote of the night: “I’d rather end up in rehab than have cats.” Ha. I almost spit wine on my menu.

Although the menu is quite extensive and includes the probably fantastic, but typical Italian fare, the real gems lie in the specials. My only problem with this is that the specials were almost as long as the menu itself and they recite them to you tableside. I used to be a waitress, so I understand how impressive it is to be able to rattle off a long list of specials for diners who can’t imagine being able to memorize all that information.  However, when specials are so long it takes 5 minutes to explain, I would prefer to have it written down. Listening to all the specials was way too much to digest (pun intended). But at the end of giving us the specials, the waiter said, “and if you a wanna something else, we can make you whateva you like-a.” Perfect. I had remembered a lamb ragu pasta dish that sounded wonderful. But it was served with spaghetti, and I prefer ragu with a wider pasta. I explained this to the waiter and asked for a tagliatelle, but he understood and immediately recommended the parpadelle over the tagliatelle, which is really what I wanted. I just get my pastas confused. I was in good hands. I relaxed. I had previously heard rumours about the larger than life portion sizes here, so my friend Wendy and I decided we would split a pasta and a fish. The branzini special sounded light and perfect – our waiter recommended that we get it grilled. He said it was much better that way. We were also instructed to get another fish, so we also ordered the salmon special, which came pan-seared with chanterelle mushrooms and broccolini sautéed in garlic sauce.  I had already resigned myself to letting my waiter determine my culinary fate.  I was in his hands, and I was not going to argue. Ginger and her mother split the porcini and truffle ravioli and grilled branzini. Ginger’s brother, Chuck, got the filet. Despite the massive amounts of antipasti we were already served, I was ready to dig in.

Primi: Number of bottles consumed: still 2 / Number of times “Happy Birthday” sung: 4

When the large bowl of pasta was set down in front of me, I immediately assumed that I would be splitting this bowl with Wendy. However, another large bowl was placed in front of her as well.  Simultaneously, we looked at each other, then at the waiter. “We split it for you already,” he said. Holy mother. At the moment, I was happy we decided to split.  But the next day, when I wanted to relive the sweet taste of lamb ragu, I was admittedly a little sad. The lamb was tender and it melted in your mouth and the homemade pasta was cooked perfectly. I was in an Italian wonderland of flavor. I also had the fortune of sampling the porcini and truffle ravioli. The sauce was thick and creamy and it highlighted the porcini flavor and the hint of truffle coming through in the background. The filling was similarly decadent. The ravioli pasta itself was good, but I thought it was a bit too thick. I would have preferred a more delicate ravioli. But who am I kidding? If that was my dish, I would have inhaled it.

Photo of Raviolo ai Porcini (from CheekyEats)

Secondi: Number of bottles consumed: 3 / Number of times “Happy Birthday” sung: 5

Next came the grilled branzini and the salmon.  Each dish was extremely different, both in presentation as well as in taste, but they were both delicious.  Before cooking, the waiter brought out the whole branzini fish to present to us.  We just nodded our heads in drunken approval, as if we would have objected. The branzini was grilled with a tad of olive oil and simply presented with just a side of lemon. The fish itself was light and flaky. The fish was definitely the star of this dish. The salmon was pan-seared with mushrooms and broccolini in a garlic sauce that complemented both the fish and the vegetables perfectly. It was hearty, flavorful and scrumptious. I was impressed with a kitchen that could put out two completely different fishes (one practically bare and one dressed up) and yet they each stood up against one another in taste. I was so full that I only finished less than half of the fish. But luckily I took them home and ate them again for Saturday’s dinner, and Sunday’s lunch. I also got to try a small, but lovely piece of Chuck’s filet.  It was tender and cooked a perfect medium rare.  All in all, the entrees were fantastic. I only wish I had room for more.

Dolci: Number of bottles consumed: 4 / Glasses of homemade grappa: 1 each / Number of times “Happy Birthday” sung: 6

Please note, Chuck was drinking only beer and left us after his filet

We decided on one light dessert (for our stomachs) and a classic dessert (for just a taste). We ordered the Zabaglione Caldo con frutti di bosco – a warm Italian custard with marsala wine, egg yolks and sugar (supposedly prepared tableside – I do not remember this) served with strawberries; and tiramisu.  While awaiting our dessert, a friendly Italian waiter (is there any other kind?) came over with what looked like a wooden bucket full of homemade grappa, on the house.  He ladled out a cup for each of us.  After a few hair-raising sips of grappa, we decided on one more bottle of red to coat our throats.  I was disappointed with the tiramisu – I have had better tiramisu during the feast of San Gennaro. However, the Zabaglione was delicious. I couldn’t believe I had never had this dessert before. Light and sweet, it was perfect after a big meal. After over four hours of utter indulgence, I rolled out of the restaurant Violet Beauregarde-style, blissfully content with my first meal at Il Mulino and eagerly anticipating my next.