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Dec 03 2009

Our Dinner at Graffiti, A True Work of Art

Published by Jill at 4:50 pm under Restaurant Reviews

Although Chef Jehangir Mehta finished runner up on The Next Iron Chef, he is the true winner in our eyes, especially after our unbelievable meal at his East Village restaurant Graffiti (224 E. 10th b/t 1st Ave & 2nd Ave) a couple of weeks back. Andy and I followed and rooted for Chef Mehta (former pastry chef of Jean-Georges and Aix) on the Food Network’s The Next Iron Chef, and we were so happy to see him make it to the final two. What an amazing run he put together! We were intrigued by his inventive dishes, elaborate presentations and endearing personality, so we thought we would give Graffiti a try. It was truly an exceptional meal that we will not soon forget — the presentation, the flavors, the textures, the service… all perfect. For more about our memorable dinner at Graffiti.…

First of all, it was not easy to snag a reservation at Chef Mehta’s tiny, 18-seat eclectic East Village restaurant (that he designed himself), but we persisted and finally got in at 9:45 pm on a Tuesday night. Chef Mehta may just be the hardest working man in NYC’s restaurant business. When you call up for a reservation, chances are you’ll be speaking with Chef Mehta, himself. Andy spoke with him twice while trying for a reservation on a couple different nights, and we were incredibly impressed with his graciousness on the phone.

Chef Mehta warmly greeted us himself once we arrived at the restaurant.  He provided us with menus and took our drink order right away. While the place is shoebox-size, the decor is warm and makes you feel right at home…that is if you live in a Manhattan apartment. We loved all the touches — newspapers as placemats, eclectic lighting fixtures, wooden tables and seats, well-placed trinkets and a buddha perched on top of a bookcase. Some parties of two were seated at communal tables, but we got a great little 2-seat bar/nook near the front. We were already excited because as we walked in two diners leaving the restaurant told us how excellent their dinner had been.  Nice!

Courtesy of Noah Kalina

The menu is divided into 3 groups of items at 3 different price points ($7, $12 and $15). The menu lends itself perfectly for sharing…which I promise is what you’re gonna want to do.

So, for the drinks… Andy started off with the signature Prosecco Lychee Martini made with Lychee Sorbet. While he begged me to pretend that it was me who ordered it, he described it as deliciously refreshing and loved what seemed to be the bottomless glass. I opted for wine and went for a bottle of Chateau Laulerie Sauvignon Blanc (which Andy later shared) for $25. All wines are $25 per bottle and $8 per glass. Great deal!

We then ordered our appetizers (all shared plates).  We had heard wonderful things about the Pickled Ginger Scallops with Candied Red Chili, and the dish was incredible.  The pickled scallops were sliced into thin disks, drizzled with a pickled ginger reduction and presented with a crunchy topping of crispy, dehydrated mung beans…and they were exceptional.  They were served with piping hot, crisp pita slices and a gorgeous chili sauce that I could not stop scooping up with every bite. It was truly a beautiful dish- colorful, inventive, balanced, and fun.  The components of each dish were explained as the dish was presented- each sweet, tart, salty, and crunchy element.

 

We next had the Foie Gras Raspberry Crostini with Walnut Salad- also fabulous, especially alongside a glass of bubbly. The foie gras was beautifully grilled and worked masterfully with the raspberry and walnut.  The raspberry offered a wonderful contrast to the foie gras and “helped to break up the fat” as Chef Mehta explained to us.

We also had the Chili Pork Dumplings with Grapefruit Confit served with Sev (micro crunchy noodles), which Andy could just not pass up (also wonderful). We loved the chili pork filling which had a nice, but not overwhelming, heat to it. I do have to say that the Scallops, though, came out on top in Round One.

Next onto the entrees…  I had the Chickpea Crusted Skate with Mint Yogurt Sauce (perfection- perfectly crispy and not at all oily served with fresh, crunchy greens on top and a delicious light and creamy mint yogurt sauce). The crispy skate with that sauce was truly one of the best fish dishes that I have had in ages.  Andy went for the Duck Portobello Gratinee with Mustard Onion Confit which was wonderful as well.

Now, neither Andy nor I have much of a sweet tooth, but we just had to try one of Chef Mehta’s desserts (especially one with ice cream after watching him take on the ice cream machine all season in The Next Iron Chef). We chose the Warm Truffle Almond Strawberries with Pepper Ice Cream.  As soon as our dish came into the dining room, I remarked that I smelled truffle (and I LOVE truffle). I was so pleasantly surprised when I realized that the earthy, extravagant scent was wafting off a dessert dish and it was coming our way!  The pepper ice cream was brilliant and it topped sweet strawberries and thin almond slices- and the truffle undertones made the dish absolute perfection. Andy described it as having a party in your mouth. It was not overwhelming, all perfectly balanced and beautifully presented.

All in all, every dish had a contrast of textures, a juxtaposition of colors, and an innovative flavor profile. Eating at Graffiti is like getting a lesson in complementary flavors and textures. Chef Mehta is a true artist and each dish is a part of the brilliant masterpiece of dinner of Graffiti. Every dish was  explained to us in detail by either Chef Mehta himself or his wonderful staff. Never have we had better service or been treated more graciously at a restaurant.

In a time when comfort food dominates the menus of most NYC hot spots, it is refreshing to enjoy food that is exciting, inventive, gorgeous, and even a bit challenging. Andy and I will certainly be back to savor more of Chef Mehta’s brilliant creations, like the new cumin eggplant buns w/ thyme fennel relish. Soon. Very soon.

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